Chinatown Chronicles: A Bustling San Francisco Neighborhood

San Francisco’s Chinatown, located next to North Beach and the Financial District, boasts a rich history intertwined with the celebration of Chinese New Year which begins on the new moon that appears between 21 January and 20 February. These celebrations along with a tour of the neighbourhood only reveal the ethnic significance and amalgamation of the Chinese community into the city’s history and culture.

History

Originally established during the Gold Rush in 1849 and reconstructed following the 1906 earthquake, Chinatown stands at the centre of San Francisco’s Chinese community which is the city’s largest Asian ethnic group. With nearly a quarter of San Francisco’s population identifying as part of the Chinese diaspora, Chinatown is the “unofficial capital of Chinese America,”. Rich in history and cultural authenticity, the neighbourhood offers unique experiences that you will find nowhere else from its culinary delights to the dynamic nightlife.

Things to Do

Grant Avenue, with its intricate Chinese architecture and traditional lanterns, serves as the gateway to Chinatown’s vibrant neighbourhood. Explore Waverly Place, famous for its painted balconies, or take a stroll through alleyways to find hidden gems. Also, the markets at Stockton Street offer fresh Chinese produce and seafood.
Chinatown’s largest park and the city’s oldest public square, Portsmouth Square, is a communal hub. Tai chi sessions fill the mornings, while afternoons see intense battles of xiangqi (Chinese chess). Adjacent, the new Edge on the Square, the Bay Area’s premier Pacific Islander-Asian American centre for contemporary arts and media, hosts diverse events and programs.

To find tranquillity within Chinatown’s hustle and bustle, head to St. Mary’s Square, where a stainless-steel statue of Sun Yat-Sen, sculpted by renowned artist, Bene Buffano is also housed. Just across the street, San Francisoc’s very first Catholic cathedral, Old St. Mary’s Cathedral, with its Gothic Revival style, stands tall, hovering above any other building in the whole state of California.

Catch a show at the nearby Great Star Theater, a historic landmark frequented by Bruce Lee in his young days, among an array of performances and shows including movies, magic, Chinese opera, cabaret, local theatre, and more.
The Chinese Cultural Center, situated within the Hilton Hotel, and the Chinese Historical Society Museum on Clay Street, offer immersive glimpses into Chinatown’s rich heritage. In addition, the Showgirl Magic Museum in the Clarion Performing Arts Center pays homage to Chinatown’s vibrant nightclub scene of the 1950s and ’60s.

This year, San Francisco is celebrating the Year of the Dragon with five unique dragon statues hidden throughout the city from January 28 to March 2. The much-awaited Chinese New Year parade will be held on Saturday, February 24, and will start on Market Street.

Additionally, for more information about the history of San Francisco’s Chinatown, although not in the neighborhood, make sure to visit the Asian Art Museum.

Eats and Drinks

A trip to Chinatown is incomplete without dim sums, a traditional savoury and sweet item. Sample some at America’s oldest dim sum parlour, Hang Ah Tea Room, which has been serving since 1920. Eastern Bakery with its delectable mooncakes is a Chinatown institution, while Red Blossom Tea Company offers exotic Chinese and Taiwanese drinks and informative talks about their origins and more. Jade Chocolates is famous for its Asian-inspired chocolates, baked goodies, teas, and ice cream sundaes while Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, the founder of the fortune cookie churns out iconic cookies since 1962. For upscale dining, visit the Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s run by the 2022 James Beard Award for “Best Chef: California”, Brandon Jew, for its modern take on Cantonese cuisine. Empress by Boon by Michelin-starred chef Ho Chee Boon, offering panoramic views and seasonal Cantonese dishes.

Nightlife in Chinatown

Chinatown offers a captivating array of venues for cocktails and socializing. Dive bars such as The Buddha Lounge, where Buddha-shaped glasses are used for serving beer and the friendly bartender, always up for a round of liar’s dice with the customer, is a must-visit. The nearby, Li Po Lounge honours an 8th-century Taoist poet and is famous for its potent mai tais laced with a “Chinese Liquor.” Head to Moongate Lounge atop the critically-acclaimed Mister Jiu’s for lunar-themed cocktails and DJ sets. The Lion’s Den, one of Chinatown’s newest hotspots, with its stylish lounges, live performances, and a members-only room for intimate gatherings truly serves San Francisco’s dynamic nightlife on a platter.

Walking Tour

Since the best way to explore Chinatown is by walking, a walking tour is indispensable if you really want to experience the history and culture up close. The Chinese Cultural Center’s History and Art Tour is a unique experience that you should not miss that takes you through the visually striking historical, cultural, and architectural details of the neighbourhood.

Getting There

Chinatown is a centrally located neighbourhood that is accessible by foot, bus, Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART), taxi, and even cable car. The neighbourhood is adjacent to North Beach, Nob Hill, Union Square, and the Financial District. If you are in any of these neighborhoods it’s best to walk. Alternately, if you are coming from Fisherman’s Wharf or Union Square, take the Powell-Hyde or Powell Mason cable car line and get off between Jackson and Bush Streets. If you are coming from the Ferry Building or Downtown San Francisco, you can take the California Street line to Grant Avenue, which is the main street of Chinatown. There are also buses available that go through the neighbourhood. If you are taking BART to Chinatown, take any train to Montgomery Street Station. Get down and take a left on Post St. until you reach Grant, then right on Grant toward the Chinatown Gate.